Category Archives: Food

Rockfish in Sweet & Spicy Beans with Miso

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Yelloweye rockfish poached in miso soup with black beens, sweet corn and summer squash. The broth is sweetened with honey and spiced with a Jamaican-style rub for a little heat to balance out the sweet.

In Japan, I was served a dish featuring carp cooked in sweetened beans. It was good, though a bit sweet to my tastes. Later, I began catching kurosoi, a black rockfish (genus Sebastes) common in northern Japan. After broiling a couple of them, I knew I had a good candidate to try in a spicier bean dish.

Two pound rockfish such as this yelloweye are perfect for a whole-fish-for-two dinner. A small zucchini, cut in half, scored, drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with herbs de provence, makes a nice side dish. 

A variety of firm, white-meated fish work well in this dish. Any of the rockfishes in genus Sebastes, black seabass, small stripers, snappers and porgy (sea bream) would be good choices. Any leftover broth from this dish can be served the following day as an excellent soup.

Rockfish in Sweet and Spicy Beans with Miso

For two diners…

Ingredients:

  • One rockfish (or other fish with firm, white meat) weighing about 1 1/2 to 2  pounds with scales, gills and entrails removed.
  • 1 pound of black beans
  • 1 cup of red miso soup broth (make it a little stronger than usual)
  • 1/2 tbsp Jamaican rub or other spicy seasoning featuring hot peppers. Cumin and oregano may be included in the seasoning, or may be added separately.
  • Several cloves of garlic, chopped coarse
  • 1/2 sweet onion, chopped coarse
  • sweet corn (one ear’s worth – about 1 cup)
  • 1 yellow squash (summer squash), sliced into circles, circles cut in half (optional)
  • sea salt to taste (the miso will add quite a bit of salt)
  • freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • hot chili pepper, sliced thin or chopped fine – just a little for additional heat (optional)
  • two tablespoons honey
  • two tablespoons olive oil
Directions:
  1. Thoroughly clean the fish, pat dry with paper towels, and set aside.
  2. Over medium-low heat, prepare the miso broth in a pan large enough to hold the whole fish (an oblong poacher works best for this, but any large, round pan that has a lid will do).
  3. Stir in the honey until dissolved.
  4. Add the beans, onions, corn, spices (including slices of chili pepper), olive oil and freshly ground pepper. Taste. Add salt and more spices, if desired. Cover with a lid and bring to a simmer.
  5. Add the fish, working it down into the broth.
  6. Cover with a lid and maintain a simmer, reducing heat if necessary, and cook for about 7 minutes. Using two spatulas, carefully turn the fish so that both sides are cooked in the broth. Add the summer squash at this time. Continue simmering on low heat for another 10 to 13 minutes. The fish will be all but falling apart when done. (Cooking the first side for a shorter time before turning the fish will mean that the fish is firmer and therefore easier to turn over.)
  7. Carefully remove the fish to a serving platter. Arrange beans and vegetables around the fish and serve piping hot.
We enjoyed this fish with a red table wine from the state of Washington. Syrah, Malbec, or Merlot would pair well with this dish.

And don’t forget a colorful seasonal salad!

Prosciutto, Salami & Capicola with Egg and Cheddar on an Onion Bagel

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Our first breakfast is served aboard Bandon: Toasted asiago cheese bagels with melted Tillamook cheddar cheese, coarsely ground mustard, onion, cream cheese, avocado, a fried egg and three kinds of Italian-style meat – prosciutto, salami and capicola. 

Time for a good sandwich.

We spent about a week giving the sailboat a thorough cleaning as well as moving items off the boat that had been left behind by previous owners and moving aboard the things that will make this boat our home. We finished this process in time for daughter Maia’s visit, and when we returned to Seward with her from the Anchorage airport, we spent our first night aboard.

The next morning I made these bagel sandwiches for our breakfast. I began by toasting the sliced bagels in a large pan with a little olive oil, turning them once and adding thin slices of cheddar cheese to melt. Next, I removed the bagels from the pan and added coarse ground mustard, cream cheese and soft, ripe avocado. With the cheeses and spreads in place, I then added a thinly sliced onion and a generous amount of Italian-style hams: prosciutto, salami and capicola. The final touch was a fried egg.

Razor Clam Fritters & Wasabi Slaw: Fusion Comfort

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Something tried-and-true, something new: clam fritters and wasabi slaw – fusion comfort food.

My dad gave me two pieces of advice which have stood the test of time – 1) Take the stairs whenever you can, and take them two-at-a-time, and 2) eat as much fried food as you can when you’re young, because at some point you won’t be able to.

Clam fritters are so easy, I’m not sure why I don’t make them more often. Although I made these with razor clams, in South Carolina I made them out of the whelks I’d find, and at other times I’ve made them out of canned clams. The slaw is comprised of fairly standard ingredients – mayonnaise (homemade), pickle juice, vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper, carrots and cabbage – and given a kick with two teaspoons of powdered wasabi.

The fritters are adapted from Craig Claiborne’s recipe as it appears in The New York Times Cook Book, with the only difference being my substitution of dried tarragon and basil, which I have, for fresh parsley, which I do not have.

Clam Fritters: serves 4

Ingredients

  • 1 cup chopped clams
  • 1 egg, lightly beaten
  • 1 tsp lemon juice
  • 1 tbsp chopped tarragon (or substitute dry tarragon or marjoram)
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1/4 cup clam juice
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 1 1/2 tbsp melted butter
  • couple dashes cayenne pepper (to taste)
  • freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • oil for frying

Directions

  1. Chop clams on a cutting board. Not too fine. Place them in a mixing bowl.
  2. Add the egg, lemon juice, tarragon, baking soda and flour and stir.
  3. Blend the clam juice and milk. Add gradually to the clam mixture, stirring continuously. Do not make the batter too runny.
  4. Stir in the butter, cayenne and black pepper.
  5. Heat about 1/8 inch of oil in a frying pan.
  6. Drop batter in the hot oil – about 2 tablespoons per fritter. (They’ll cook better if they’re fairly small.)
  7. Turn when the bottom is browned, as you would for pancakes.

We served these with salmon sauce. Tarter sauce, shrimp sauce, or a squeeze of lemon works well, too. These seemed to beg for an amber ale. (Or maybe it’s Barbra and me doing the begging after nine months of living in a dry village!) Enjoy!

One Cup of Mayo, and Hold the Preservatives!

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Whip up this tasty, fast, easy mayonnaise recipe once, and you may never go back to store-bought.

The first time I realized that mayonnaise could be made at home I was reading Chapter I, De Gustibus (regarding taste) in Craig Claiborne’s New York Times Cookbook. His recipe called for an egg yolk, salt, freshly ground pepper, Dijon mustard, vinegar or lemon juice, one cup of peanut oil and a whisk. I tried it and to my amazement, it worked! The chemistry in forming this emulsion is visually fascinating. But what a lot of effort. I was happy enough with my jar of Hellmann’s. It would be 27 years before I’d have another go at the homemade version.

In fact it was Barbra who encouraged me to revisit mayonnaise. Taking up her challenge, I made a cup of it, this time in a blender. Better than getting mayonnaise elbow with a whisk, but still… the old-school blender I used was a bother to clean. So the next time we needed mayonnaise, we went to Point Hope’s Native Store. $$$ for a six-ounce jar.

That was when we decided, finally, to invest in a good immersion blender – aka a stick blender. And now, I doubt we’ll ever buy a jar of mayonnaise again. The recipe below is quick, easy to clean up after, and results in a tasty, preservative-free, all-natural mayonnaise ready to be spread on a turkey sandwich, to serve as a base for anchovy-mayonnaise salad dressing, or to blend into deviled eggs.

1 cup Homemade Mayonnaise

Ingredients:

  • 1 large egg, as fresh as possible
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp white vinegar (we like rice vinegar)
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • healthy pinch or two (1/8 teaspoon) salt
  • dash of white pepper or freshly ground black pepper, or both
  • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil (or other vegetable oil)

Directions:

You will need a stick blender and a fairly narrow container such as a small canning jar, one just wide enough so that the stick blender fits.

  1. Place egg in a narrow jar or other container.
  2. Add lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper.
  3. Add olive oil.
  4. Push stick blender to the bottom of the container. Blend on high speed. (This depends on the blender. Ours gets the job done at a lower setting.) Within seconds, mayonnaise will start to form. As soon as you see this, gradually raise the blender to create more mayonnaise. Mix through top to bottom one more time thoroughly. The entire mixing process will take about 10 seconds.

This mayonnaise will keep in your refrigerator for about two weeks. The extra virgin olive oil and the Dijon give it a distinctive taste. For mayonnaise more like commercial brands, use canola or peanut oil and half the Dijon or a milder mustard.

Butter Toffee Almonds

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Plain, cayenne pepper, or rock salt. We liked all three. Which will you make?

We don’t like to visit friends empty-handed, especially when we invite ourselves over to watch a sporting event on TV. In bush Alaska, there aren’t six-packs of beer or bottles of wine to grab at the store. Our ready gift is usually something we’ve created in the kitchen. Recently we were running late for one of the March Madness basketball games and had nothing already prepared, so a few whirls in the kitchen and we had buttered toffee almonds – three ways. The original plain version is quite tasty. Two other versions were made by sprinkling cayenne pepper on some for that back-of-your-throat-bite and by sprinkling large grains of sea salt for another pleasant surprise. All three versions were tied for first place. This recipe was finished in 15 minutes. Lucky for us, the walk over in sub-freezing temperatures cooled the almonds enough to eat as soon as we entered our friends’ home.

Butter Toffee Nuts Recipe

Ingredients

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cup butter (2 sticks)
  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 3 cups whole almonds (or use 3 cups peanuts)
Directions
  1. Use a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan to heat all of the ingredients, except the nuts. Stir the mixture constantly to prevent scorching. Using a candy thermometer and medium heat, bring the mixture to 300 degrees. The temperature will rise as the water is boiled off, and this can happen quickly, so be prepared to lower the heat or remove the candy from the heat as needed.
  2. As soon as the mixture reaches the desired temperature, remove it from the stove and add the nuts. Mix until all nuts are coated. Pour the nut mixture onto a greased cookie sheet spread into an even layer. Let fully cool. This step works well on parchment paper.

Recipe adapted from http://www.life123.com/food/candies-fudge/toffee/making-butter-toffee-almonds.shtml.

Scallop and Shrimp Chawan Mushi with Smoked Quail Eggs

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Chawan mushi combines two of my favorite things: custard and an element of pleasant surprise. Although the custards served to me (mostly by my grandmother) in my youth were invariably sweet, it was love at first spoonful when I had my first taste of chawan mushi in a Tokyo restaurant. On that occasion, I would have been happy just to enjoy the small ramekin of savory soupy custard that came with my meal. But when one of those spoonfuls revealed a sweet shrimp, and another a tender boiled quail egg, I was full-blown, head-over-heals gone.

Japanese diners seem to think of chawan mushi more as a soup than a custard, and I have to admit that over time, I have come to prefer this dish fairly loosely set. In addition to fresh, grilled or smoked seafood (a bit of smoked salmon makes a nice finishing piece), fresh vegetables such as peas, butter beans, lotus root or mushrooms, or a tender piece of salty grilled chicken, beef or wild game all work well. Creative cooks may want to experiment with the basic dashi recipe or substitute chicken or beef broth. A pinch of smoked sea salt adds another dimension to this versatile dish which can be served hot to take the chill of a winter evening or refreshingly cold on a warm summer day.

Below are the directions for Scallop and Shrimp Chawan Mushi with Smoked Quail Eggs – with much appreciation to a Japanese friend who mailed us a package of smoked quail eggs, thus inspiring this dish. By the way, chawan means tea cup; mushi means steaming.

The Watercourse, a signed and numbered giclée by Whitehorse, Yukon Territory artist Nathalie Parenteau serves as the backdrop for this All-Clad poacher. With its raised tray, it’s perfect for steaming chawan mushi either in an oven or on a stove top. In the past, I’ve improvised with a large round kettle fitted with an inverted shallow wicker basket. The same kettle also works with an inverted metal strainer that happens to fit.

Jack’s Dashi

Ingredients

  • 2 cups water
  • sheet of dried kombu (Japanese kelp) about 4″ x 4″ (about 5 grams)
  • 1 teaspoon “Better than Bouillon Lobster Base” (or make traditional dashi with 1/4 cup dried bonito flakes)

Directions

  1. Add two cups of water and the kombu to a pan. Heat over medium heat.
  2. Just before the water boils, remove the kombu. Turn off heat and stir in the lobster base bouillon.
  3. Strain through cheese cloth or fine-mesh strainer to remove stray pieces of kombu (or bonito flakes, if those are used). The lobster bouillon base will create a slightly darker dashi than bonito flakes. In the finished chawan mushi, this will create an attractive cream color.
  4. Set aside to cool.

Scallop and Shrimp Chawan Mushi with Smoked Quail Eggs

Ingredients

  • 6 small ramekins, preferably with loosely fitted lids. Plastic wrap with a small puncture (to allow steam to escape) can be used to cover the ramekins if lids are not available.
  • 2 cups dashi (see recipe above)
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 6 sea scallops
  • 6 sweet shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails removed (Alaskan shrimp are similar to the ama-ebi of Japan and are perfect for this dish)
  • 6 smoked quail eggs
  • (optional) sea salt to taste
  • (optional) 2 tablespoons good sake

Directions

  1. In a bowl, whisk eggs until smooth. Make sure dashi is cool (so it won’t cook the eggs) and stir into egg mixture. Add soy sauce (and sake, optional) and mix together, but avoid mixing so vigorously that foam is created. Taste for appropriate saltiness. If more salt is desired, use sea salt. Set mixture aside.
  2. Slice scallops depth-wise into three or four parts. Place scallops and 1 shrimp each into the ramekins.
  3. If there are bubbles or foam on the egg and dashi mixture, use a spoon to remove. The finished chawan mushi should be smooth. Cover the scallops and shrimp with the egg and dashi mixture so that ramekins are about 2/3 full. Cover each ramekin with a loosely fitting lid or punctured piece of plastic wrap.
  4. Arrange the covered ramekins in a steamer and gently steam for 12 minutes, until mixture is loosely set.
  5. Turn off heat. Place a smoked quail egg atop each chawan mushi, cover with lids again, and keep them in the steaming pan so that the custard continues to set and the egg warms through – approximately 3 – 5 additional minutes.

This dish makes a delicious appetizer, can be served as one would serve a soup, or as part of the main meal. It will keep nicely in the refrigerator for a day or two. Our village in bush Alaska is dry, so sake is not an option. But I highly recommend you include it, as it really compliments the flavors of this dish – and pairs well as a drink served with the finished chawan mushi.

Rosemary Kalamata Olive Loaf

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Aromatic and flavorful, tonight this rosemary kalamata olive loaf will accompany a moose roast. Roasted lamb, too, would be a good choice, and we anticipate it pairing well with Italian or Greek dishes, as well. This morning we served toasted slices with olive oil with halibut omelets. During the baking process, our kitchen was filled with the irresistible scent of rosemary. We agreed it was one of the best savory breads we’ve ever had.

This is another recipe from 300 Best Bread Machine Recipes by Donna Washburn and Heather Butt. Monitor the dough during the kneading process to make sure the amount of flour/moisture is right. Because the kalamata olives added moisture, I found I needed to add a little more flour than is indicated below.

Olive Rosemary Loaf

Ingredients

  • 1 cup water
  • 3/4 cup kalamata olives, pitted and chopped coarse, extra moisture gently squeezed out in paper towels
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp granulated sugar
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 1/4 cups all purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup fresh rosemary (or 2 tsp dried)
  • 1 1/4 tsp yeast

Directions

  1. Measure ingredients into baking pan in the order recommended by the bread machine manufacturer. Insert pan into the oven chamber. Start your machine. During the kneading phase, check to make sure the dough is of proper consistency. Add flour or water as needed.

Chocolate Truffle Cookies with Pecans

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Dedicated to fully addicted chocoholics, this chocolatey chocolate with chocolate-chip cookie is not for people who just “like” chocolate. Are you getting how chocolatey these are? 

This low-flour cookie is dense and fudge-like. Because the dough is quite sticky, I recommend using a cookie scoop and then rolling the chilled dough in a coating such as chopped nuts, confectioner’s sugar or coconut in order to make handling the dough easier. This extra touch also enhances the taste, texture and the presentation.

Chocolate Truffle Cookies

makes 3 dozen cookies

Ingredients

  • 2 cups semisweet chocolate chips, divided equally
  • 6 tablespoons butter
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 cup white sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup finely chopped pecans

Directions

  1. In a microwave or in a bowl warmed over a pan of simmering water, place the butter and 1 cup of chocolate chips and melt together, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove from heat and set aside to slightly cool.
  2. In a large bowl, beat eggs and sugar until thick and pale, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vanilla and the chocolate mixture until well mixed.
  3. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt. Gradually stir into the chocolate mixture. Fold in remaining 1 cup chocolate chips. Cover dough and chill for at least an hour or overnight.
  4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Roll chilled dough into 1 inch balls. Roll dough balls to coat with chopped pecans. Place on ungreased cookie sheets so they are 2 inches apart.
  5. Baking time will vary depending on how chilled the dough is when it goes into the oven. Place cookies into preheated oven. Check at 9 minutes. Finished cookies should be puffed up and slightly cracked on top. This may take up to 15 minutes. Allow cookies to cool on baking sheet for 5 minutes before removing to a wire rack to cool completely.

This recipe was adapted from http://allrecipes.com/recipe/chocolate-truffle-cookies/detail.aspx.

Overnight French Toast with Blueberries

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Blueberry French toast made from leftover challah bread makes for a gourmet breakfast. Thick slices of apple-smoked bacon and freshly brewed cups of espresso roast coffee rounded out this Spring Break breakfast.

Overnight French Toast with Blueberries

Ingredients

  • 6 slices day-old (or older) challah, cut into 1 inch cubes (other brioche-style breads can be substituted)
  • 1/2 (8 ounce) package cream cheese
  • 1/2 cup fresh blueberries (or dried blueberries soaked in hot water for five minutes)
  • 4 eggs, beaten
  • 1/2 cup milk (I used soy milk)
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/3 cup maple syrup
Directions
  1. Lightly grease a baking dish approximately 8 x 8 inches. (My dish was 7 x 10.)
  2. Spread cream cheese on top of bread slices. Cut slices into 1-inch cubes. Arrange the bread cubes in the dish. Sprinkle with 1 cup blueberries.
  3. In a large bowl, mix the eggs, milk, cream, vanilla extract, and syrup. Pour over the bread cubes. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.
  4. Remove the bread cube mixture from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before baking. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).
  5. Cover, and bake 30 minutes. Uncover, and continue baking 25 to 30 minutes, until center is firm and surface is lightly browned.

I opted to sprinkle chopped pecans onto the French toast during the last 10 minutes of baking. The French toast is not overly sweet, which is what I was going for. You could mix in confectioner’s sugar with the cream cheese for a sweeter version. Cinnamon would also be a nice addition.

Crustless Cranberry Cake

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Tart cranberries and almonds make for an irresistible combination. This cake is delicious served with vanilla bean ice cream or covered with hot vanilla custard.

With eight weeks to go in our school year, it’s time to get creative with items remaining in our pantry and freezers. Our pecan upside-down pumpkin cake was a delicious way to use up a cup of frozen pumpkin puree that survived the holiday season. Our next challenge was two cups of cranberries from the freezer door. I found a promising recipe for a crustless cranberry “pie.” We are fans of tart and sweet flavor combinations, and this recipe was a terrific way to use those residual cranberries. I decided to pulverize the almonds so they would provide more flavor than texture.
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Crustless Cranberry Cake
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Ingredients
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup white sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 2 cups cranberries
  • 1/2 cup whole almonds pulverized to the consistency of coarse flour
  • 1/2 cup applesauce (used instead of butter)
  • 3 eggs, well beaten
  • 2 tablespoons almond syrup (the kind used to flavor drinks in coffee shops)
  • (optional) zest from 1 orange or 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier
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Directions
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease one deep 9-inch pie pan.
  2. Combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Stir in the cranberries and the almonds, and toss to coat. Stir in the applesauce, beaten eggs, and almond extract. The mixture will be very thick. Spread the batter into the greased pan.
  3. Bake at 350 degrees F for 40 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean.
  4. Serve warm with whipped cream, ice cream, or warm vanilla custard.

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Recipe adapted from http://allrecipes.com/recipe/crustless-cranberry-pie/Detail.aspx