Seeking Silver Salmon

Coho Salmon

Trolling is boring, I thought. Two summers ago we drove around in our boat outside of Whittier at incredibly slow speeds dragging a couple of lures only one silly little pink salmon came to bite. Heck, you don’t even get hold the rod!

This was my impression.

That has changed.

This summer while in Seward, we heard the silver salmon (Coho) run on Resurrection Bay was hot. Out on the bay, Jack got gear ready for trolling; I was prepared to enjoy the scenery. But no sooner did he put a lure in the water and set the rod in the holder than we got hit! We quickly strategized–I drive, Jack tends rigs, fish hits, Jack shouts “FISH,” I drop the boat into neutral, Jack reels in the fish, I grab the net, and Voila–major fun! Then we switch–Jack drives, I reel in the fish, and Jack does honors on the net!

The limit for silver salmon in Resurrection Bay is six fish – which meant with two limits, we could keep 12.. The first 11 salmon came easily. Naturally, that last elusive fish took us a while to find. We took a break from trolling by catching other fish that day…halibut, lingcod, and rockfish. When we went back to trolling, a dime-bright silver was waiting for us. When we finally pulled up at the cleaning station at the marina with our beautiful catch (two Chinook, several large silvers, halibut and rockfish)…even the locals were impressed.

Chapter 2 Point Hope

I hesitate to call it Chapter 2. What do I call the summers? Interludes or intermissions between the chapters? At any rate…

After the plane made it through lifting fog, we arrived in Point Hope last Wednesday. We planned to arrive early in Point Hope so we would have plenty of time to settle into our new home and get oriented to the village. Last year, we were faced with many unanticipated tasks that made our school year start seem frenzied. We wanted to ensure that there would be plenty of time this year in the event our hours overfilled.

We arrived laden with nine coolers stuffed with frozen foods. As we met our ride, we were cheerfully greeted in spite of all of our luggage! We drove the two miles into town on a mix of gravel and concrete roads. A quick tour revealed the general layout of the town and the locations of the grocery store, the post office and the school.

Our home is a palace compared to our place in Shishmaref. It’s a two bedroom, one bath home with tons of space. The ceilings are 10 feet tall. We have a flush toilet, a great shower and our own laundry room! (If you have been following along, you’ll remember the last house had essentially no bathroom and a water tank we had to fill every six weeks in order to have running water.) The school provided us a stand up freezer which easily stored all nine coolers worth of goods. The best thing about the house is that the kitchen, living room, and office are in an open floor plan. That is the perfect configuration for people who love to cook and simultaneously socialize.

We’ve walked out to the point a couple of times now. It’s 2.3 miles from our front door. Both times we’ve gone out, we’ve seen hundreds of birds. We’ve also seen bearded seals (oogruk in Eskimo) playing in the surf. Both are indicators that there are fish. The natives tell us the pink salmon have begun to run and soon there will be HUGE sea run Dolly Varden to catch. We are eagerly waiting for our fishing gear to arrive in the mail so we can go see what we can catch. Last year, we were given Dolly Varden to eat…delicious!

Back home, the house is coming together quickly. We’ve already tested out the bread machine. A warm, sweet, white loaf indicated perfect operation. Next test — the oven. Chocolate chip cookies should do the trick. (The postal workers and the school maintenance team will benefit from that batch. Boy, they did a lot of work delivering all of our boxes.)

Next week, our district sends us to the district office in Barrow. We’ll get to spend some time at the “top of the world.” Should be interesting…

Clam Digger

Two hours before low water

the clam digger walks the pebbled beach and waits

clatter of rocks under each stride

eagles silhouetted against the morning sky

on the towering, sand-colored bluffs

the tide edges back slowly

exposing fist-sized rocks

red and veined with quartz

green rocks with speckles

look like eggs

the saltchuck laps at the last fringes of rock

till at last the sand beach begins to show

and dimples

and blinkers

and neckers…

Everywhere!

Grizzly

At the summit of the Exit Glacier trail, we put our packs down and let our eyes sweep across the Harding Ice Field. It looked like a vast lake of white, dotted here and there with the dark, bare rock of mountain peaks pushing up from the ice field like islands.

“What’s that out there?” Barbra asked, pointing far out on the ice field.

“Probably just some person,” I replied, barely looking up.

As the dark object continued to lumber toward us, Barbra finally picked up the binoculars. “It’s a bear!”

Sure enough. On the hike up the trail, we’d spotted a sow black bear with two cubs grazing in an alpine meadow. With the image of the black bear fresh in our minds, it was clear that what we were now looking at was a grizzly. A massive one with a large shoulder hump, probably a male.

We marveled at the speed with which it made it’s way across the frozen landscape, it’s tracks stretching out as far as the eye could see in its wake. He appeared to be heading straight for Exit Glacier, which, we imagined, he would follow until he came to a river where he could find spawning sockeye salmon.

Glaciers are like rivers of ice, pushed down mountains by the weight of the ice fields where they are born. It is not known for certain how deep—how thick—the Harding Ice Field is. Judging from the mountain peaks that surround it, it must surely be thousands of feet thick at its deepest places, and it spawns dozens of glaciers, each one carving its own path in the mountain rock as it flows. Exit Glacier moves at a rate of about one and a half feet each day, grinding out a valley under the tons of ice it carries.

One Hundred-twenty Clams

One-hundred and twenty clams

That’s a lot of razor clams. Back on the Oregon coast, the limit was thirty for the two of us. We love razors, they are THE best eating clams. Driven by our love of clams and the best clamming tide of the summer, we cruised down the Kenai coast to see what we could catch.

We got to the beach well before the peak low tide. The beach was suspiciously devoid of people and very rocky. The day before, a family of campers had told us that this beach was “loaded” with clams. Maybe we had been punked! Patience, Donachy’s, patience.

We walked south in hopes of finding sand or evidence of clams. The day was sunny, and the blue skies were reflected in the glassy waters of Cook Inlet. Shouldered with snow, Mount Iliamna loomed in the distance, catching clouds like wisps of cotton. Bald eagles seemed to be everywhere. We walked immersed in the beauty and stillness, the sun warming us.

As the tide continued to recede, here and there patches of sand began to show. And then, so did the people. Trucks and ATVs drove by and continued down the beach. A-ha! After a few more minutes of walking we joined the two dozen or so people who were beginning to dig. There were old, young, and in between. Dads were coaching kids. Groups of young girls were squealing and giggling with each clam they pulled from the wet sand.

As we joined the diggers, we were amazed at the quantity of shows—the tell-tale dimples in the sand made by each clam’s syphon. Two years earlier, we dug some clams at a nearby beach. They were huge, but we didn’t find many. On this beach, the clams were smaller, but still a good size for eating. After digging for a bit over an hour, we decided we’d better count and see where we were. We were shocked to find we had already dug one hundred clams! We were almost disappointed knowing that we only could dig twenty more.

The morning of clamming and walking the beach had been a blast! We knew we had our work cut out for us cleaning and prepping the razors for cooking. Armed with a six-pack of Alaskan White Ale and the high the two big bags of clams left us with, we went back to camp to finish the task.

Provisioning for a Year in the Bush

Above, Jack is zip-tying the lid to a Rubbermaid Roughneck tub at our storage unit in Anchorage.

Planning for a year in a remote village may seem like a daunting task. After two bush moves and two annual shopping experiences, I think we’ve nailed it.

In Walden, Thoreau lists everything he took with him to his life on the shores of Walden Pond. Fascinated and inspired by Thoreau’s list, we vigilantly documented all the provisions we sent out to Shishmaref last year and monitored what we used and didn’t use in order to prepare our shopping lists for this coming year.

Here’s what the advice of others and our own experiences have taught us.

1. Rubbermaid Roughneck. They come in a variety of sizes and are easy to stack and store. We label each tub and lid so all the holes we drill for the zip ties which keep them closed match up. The manufacturer says they are “unbreakable.” So far, they have been just that. Caution: most other tubs will break.

2. Cardboard boxes. The best boxes are reliable for only one use, and even then they are more difficult to ship and stack than the plastic tubs. We have gone away from using boxes.

3. Media mail. For books, CD’s, DVDs and other media, the post office gives a discount on their already inexpensive rates. Know that these items will be shipped on the slowest boat, at times will be stacked atop each other in huge piles, and will likely be tossed around. In our first move, just about the only boxes that were wrecked were those that had been sent at the media rate. This time around, we shipped our media in rubber tubs.

4. Dry goods. We think of food items in three categories: dry, refrigerated, and frozen. Our first advice is this: if you don’t have a Costco membership, get one! Costco has excellent prices and they seldom stock anything that isn’t of good quality. Unlike some other stores which, for a fee, will pack and ship your groceries for you, Costco is a “do-it-yourself” proposition. That’s fine with us. Not only do we save money by taking care of something we can do perfectly well ourselves, but in doing so we ensure that our items are properly packaged. And in addition to getting butcher-shop-quality meats and excellent produce, in shopping at Costco we are giving our hard-earned money to a business that is known for treating its employees and its customers fairly and ethically. We won’t name any businesses, but personally we can’t justify giving our money to a corporation that is constantly in the news fending off one law suit after another because they simply do not treat their employees ethically and with respect. Once we have purchased and packed our dry goods, we mail them at the parcel post rate of about 70 cents per pound.

5. Frozen goods. Alaska airlines as well as the the smaller airlines that provide service to the bush allow three checked items (50 pounds each) and one carry on item. We were advised to bring coolers as the checked items, so last year, we brought up three 58-quart coolers stuffed with frozen meat, juice, fruit, and vegetables. All the coolers ended up exceeding the airline’s weight limit by 20 to 25 pounds each, which irritated the employees at the ticket counter end cost as overage fees. This year, we are going to use Rubbermaid tubs instead of coolers. The tubs themselves are lighter than coolers, and by going with 14 gallon (56 quart) coolers and using crumpled newspaper for insulation and to take up some room, we should be able to stay within the weight limit. With items frozen solid (we have a chest freezer at our storage place), everything should hold up fine during travel. We’ll supplement what we buy at Costco with the razor clams, salmon, halibut and rockfish we harvest this summer. By the way, the large bags of frozen vegetables Costco carries are superb.

6. Refrigerated items. Last year, we really wanted cheese, yogurt, eggs, lettuce, apples, and tomatoes, and not knowing whether or not we could readily get these items in Shishmaref, we decided that we would pay the extra cost for “overnight” shipping. We knew that we wouldn’t actually get these things the next day, but we were hoping that our delivery would arrive in two or three days. Unfortunately, it took a full week for our items to arrive. As we unboxed our items, we were mentally preparing for the stench of rotten yogurt, cheese and lettuce. But amazingly, the only items we lost were the few small bags of frozen vegetables we had thrown in as ice bags. The vegetables had thawed and had begun turning to compost.

7. Items we forgot or ran out of. Our experience here is that if you forget something or something gets lost or ruined in transit, don’t worry. If the store in your bush community doesn’t carry something you need, you can pick up your phone and call the Fred Meyer store in Fairbanks. (Don’t bother with their online bush order service; it isn’t really set up to be practical.) Fred Meyer will mail or ship any item they carry in their store. They pack things well, their, customer service is excellent, and their prices are reasonable.

We’ve finished our shopping and packing chores for this year, and now we have the rest of the summer to camp, fish, boat, hike and play!

The Next Chapter…

This is our last day in Shishmaref. The sun is out in full force, and already the morning air is warm. Here and there, buntings and other birds are gathering nesting material.

The people of Shishmaref have been incredibly kind and generous with us. We’ve made friends here. The number of boxes we have just finished packing reminds us that we had intended to live here for years, not months. This was our home, and we are taking with us many good memories.

Life moves forward and happily it looks like the move to Point Hope will be positive for us in terms of career, adventure and just learning about new places, people and new customs. We are excited to live in another Inupiat village, and we have heard from many people  that Point Hope is much like Shishmaref. As our boxes make their way 200 miles north, we find ourselves eagerly anticipating the next chapter.

Rhythms

School has been out for a week. The sun is up all day. Children are playing. People are out socializing. Hunters have their boats on the sea ready for the ice to open enough to hunt oogruk (bearded seals). The birds are mating and nesting. Soon it will be time to gather eggs.

The rhythms of Sarichef island hum along.

Adoration

The kids here are really sweet in the most sincere and loving way.

Yesterday, we grabbed our cameras and went walking toward the west channel (the west end of the island). On the way, we ran into three students. On most walks, we might have a couple of kids join us. They usually stay with us part of our long walks. Not today. These guys hung on for the entire walk.

These students in particular LOVE us (especially Jack). They treat Jack like a rock star. It’s very cute and sweet. They would probably follow us to Point Hope! The photo above represents these boys well. They want to know about everything Jack does. Jack crept up on some birds to photograph them. The boys crept behind him to learn and watch.

We hope that the kids up in Point Hope are just like our young friends in Shishmaref.