The t’s have been crossed and the final i dotted. All 37 feet and 12 tons of the sailing vessel Tarsus is ours.
What have we gotten into?
There’s a line from the film The Shipping News that seems to fit. “Course, you don’t know nothin’ about boats, but that’s entertaining, too.”
Four years ago when we bought our C-Dory, Gillie, I’d never piloted a power boat longer than 12 feet – my dad’s aluminum car-topper with its 5 hp engine. Barbra had even less experience with boats. All we really knew was that we wanted a fishing boat. So we did our due diligence – read books, researched on the Internet, visited dealerships, checked out boats in marinas, talked to people and attended boat shows. In the end, we came to a familiar set of conclusions, the short of which go like this: There are a lot of boats for sale, and most of ‘em float. Out of all those boats, a few makes stand out. After that, everything is a compromise. The boat we really wanted was too big to readily trailer; thus it was not the boat we really wanted. We took the plunge, bought Gillie and a year later towed her all the way to Alaska, to the Port of Valdez, which is over 3,000 miles from Sacramento. We then launched her, ran 90 miles to the Port of Cordova, and spent the next eight days and nights fishing and camping aboard our boat in Prince William Sound.
Above: Jagged rocks and islands create a maze leading from Resurrection Bay out into the Gulf of Alaska. Top photo: Massive Blackstone Glacier towers above its namesake bay near Whittier, Alaska.
Time and tide kept me from sailing, but I honestly can’t remember a time in my life when I didn’t want to sail. It’s always been there. Landlocked in western Pennsylvania, my family would take summer vacations to the coast – up to Cape Cod, down to North Carolina’s Outer Banks, west to Oregon – where we’d spend a week frenetically touring museums and historical sites, dining out in restaurants, perusing art galleries and shopping. For my part, I could have spent all day every day on those vacations doing nothing more elaborate than fishing the first tide of the day, combing the beaches, and walking the marina docks. The boats, particularly the sailboats, were magical. Mesmerizing. I’d see their owners emerging from below deck, or topside working on this or that, or just relaxing and looking off in the distance and I wanted to be those people. I had so many questions for them, but I never worked up the courage to break free from my family, approach one of them and ask. Questions like, How does it work? How do you steer it? Do you live on it? What does its name mean? Where have you been on it? Where will you go next?
Tarsus’ former owners were podiatrists. Although we haven’t completed a formal name change yet, on each piece of paper associated with the sale (for a boat this size, there’s nearly as much paperwork as in a home sale) we have penned in Bandon where the vessel’s name appears.
Sea otters are a common, always welcome sight along Alaska’s southeast and central coasts.
There’s a small town on the southern Oregon coast where a river with runs of salmon, steelhead and striped bass joins the Pacific. Bandon. For a long time, Barbra and I looked at land on the Coquille River upstream from Bandon. In addition to the fish, the area has deer, turkeys, game birds and elk as well as good mushrooming and abundant wild berries. It’s a quiet part of the world, not overly far from wine country. We talked about a piece of land with trees, a spot for a garden, raising chickens there and cutting our own firewood for a wood burning stove in a cozy house where we would homestead.
Bandon is that. But it’s more. This time, it’s not the boat that represents the compromise. It’s the lifestyle. Choosing to become sailors means, at least for now, not becoming homesteaders. It means not driving our camper all over North America, or having a cabin on the shores of a lake full of walleyes, or collecting wine, or, in Barbra’s case, getting a pilot’s license.
Bandon will be docked in the Marina at Seward, pictured here in early July.
To borrow from Robert Frost, Bandon is the road we’ve taken. She’s got a sound hull, every amenity and comfort we need and then some, and sails to take us over any sea. It is dreams come true for us, and in some of those dreams there is a placid lake full of walleyes, and endless summer days touring North America in our camper, a herd of elk feeding on windfalls beneath our apple trees, a salmon fresh from our river for Thanksgiving dinner, a wood burning stove and a freshly made blackberry pie.
Resurrection Bay, where Seward is located, has one of the largest summertime concentrations of Coho salmon in North America. There is an abundant, varied and rich ecosystem in the bay, making it a premier locale for everything from watching sea birds and otters to seeing whales, dolphins and porpoises. The surrounding mountains are spectacular and help ensure for predictable winds, making Resurrection Bay a great place to sail. For more information about the sailing vessel Bandon, click on the word Tarsus.
These are some phenomenal shots. I love that first snow scene. It’s amazing how so few colors tell the story.
Thank you. The scenery up here is indescribably amazing.
I’m hoping to visit AK in 2013. Thanks for sharing!
If you make it up here, be sure to look us up!
Love the otters! 🙂
I agree with you, Alaska is really beautiful. I am hoping to return.
Wow, I am up folding laundry in the early morning hours before starting my work week and happened to check my email. Reading through your blog brought me to an earlier time in my life…BB/BC (before Bob/before children). I, too, longed to sail. Once upon a time I married a young teacher who was building a 50 ft. fero-cement sailboat. We lived in Tahoe and worked on the boat here in the city every summer. Never came to fruition for me. No regrets, but the dream of sailing still lingers somewhere deep within. Thrilled that you are able to follow your dreams. Looking forward to future blogs and more beautiful pictures of where you sail and what you see and experience. Can almost feel the breeze on my face and gentle motion of the boat slipping through the water on a sunny day somewhere quiet, uncrowded, and breathtakingly beautiful. Hmmm, maybe I’ll visit you some summer day. Blessings to you both. Happy sailing!
Gorgeous pictures! Good luck with Bandon and I look forward to reading of your adventures!
Hi! I am so glad you stopped by to check out my site or I would never have found yours! I am loving reading your blog. I visited Alaska in 2007 with my mom and it will forever be the most amazing trip I’ve ever taken. I hope to take my kids up there to see for themselves someday. Alaska is beautiful, every last bit of it. The photo of the otters is adorable. What an adventurous life you live! What a joy.
Thanks for following. We never get tired of the beautiful scenery. And otters…so cute! Hope you get to bring your kids up. There is so much to see and do.